Natrajan, Balmurli and Jacob, Suraj
(2018)
‘provincialising’ vegetarianism putting Indian food habits in their place.
Economic and Political Weekly, 53 (9).
pp. 54-64.
ISSN 2349-8846
Abstract
Large-scale survey data are used to question the most
public claims about food habits in India. It is found that the extent of overall vegetarianism is much less—and
the extent of overall beef-eating much more—than suggested by common claims and stereotypes. The
generalised characterisations of “India” are deepened by
showing the immense variation of food habits across
scale, space, group, class, and gender. Additionally, it is argued that the existence of considerable intra-group
variation in almost every social group (caste, religious)
makes essentialised group identities based on food
practices deeply problematic. Finally, in a social climate where claims about food practices rationalise violence, cultural–political pressures shape reported and actual food habits. Indian food habits do not fit into neatly identifiable boxes
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